Cavan: Great Atmosphere, Even Better Food

I'd walked past Cavan on Magazine Street so many times. It caught my eye immediately because the restaurant is in this beautiful, renovated mansion built in 1883. Last weekend, I finally went in, and Cavan is now one of my new favorite restaurants in the city.

Tables line the large front porch, and both the upstairs and downstairs dining areas are as gorgeous as the exterior suggests. It's immediately warm and inviting.

Owned by restaurant group LeBlanc + Smith, Cavan has been open for almost a year and a half, and the menu changes frequently based on the availability of fresh, local ingredients. I asked the waitress which dishes she recommended from the relatively new menu before me and ordered accordingly.

The chips and dip appetizer is incredible. I was admittedly skeptical initially, but I regretted any hesitation as soon as I took my first bite. These "chips" are made from crab fat and are slightly porous and light. The "dip" is made from smoked fish, cream cheese, and herbs and is topped with cayenne. Don't think; just order.

The salmon poke tacos are also phenomenal. I love salmon (see my blog post on Shogun) and I love poke, but I can't say I'd had salmon poke in a taco before. The salmon tastes incredibly fresh, and it's marinated in sesame oil. This poke is enveloped by a crunchy chip that comes in the shape of a taco shell. The taco is topped with a seaweed salad and sesame seeds and rests on an avocado purée surrounded by four squirts of a sriracha-like paste. The taco is reminiscent of a salmon ceviche but with Asian flavors. A very refreshing bite.

The tuna & crab piccata is a unique entree that combines two familiar ingredients: tuna and fettuccine. Don't be deceived by the crispy, brioche-encrusted exterior, which provides the perfect textural balance with the tuna itself. The meat was incredibly tender and probably the best cooked tuna I've ever eaten. The fettuccine, cooked al dente, is house-made and hand-cut, and it complements the tuna surprisingly well. The dish is topped with a generous portion of crabmeat, capers, and pecorino romano (cheese).

If there is a fish dish on the menu, there's at least an 80% chance that I'll order it. The jerk-rubbed fish did not disappoint. This dish comes with a perfectly cooked moist and flaky drum topped with a flavorful pineapple-radish pico de gallo. The fish jus has hints of coconut, and the tomato red rice is there to soak it all up. I'm not a big fan of coconut, but the coconut flavor here is fairly mild and the dish is so delicious that I'd forgotten all about my coconut disdain.

I'll be returning to Cavan soon for dinner (and will try the smoked duck breast) and, of course, for brunch. The ambiance and food make it an ideal spot for a romantic date, a casual meal, or drinks with friends.

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